Saturday, March 14, 2009

Charleston Trip, Part III




Slow and steady wins the race, right? I just needed an extra month to finish this...

Our last full day in Charleston began with a quick drive to the Atlantic Ocean. It was a cooler, more overcast day, but we still enjoyed taking a few minutes to stroll along the beach of this mighty ocean.

Judy & Renee

We had also decided to skip making a day trip to Savannah, Georgia. Although we all were disappointed about not going there, we agreed that there was still a lot we wanted to see and do (and eat!) in Charleston and we just didn't want to spend 5-6 hours traveling in the car to get to and from the two cities. Perhaps some other day.

The back of the Aiken-Rhett House

An old carriage in one of the stables

Aftere the beach, we went to the historic Aiken-Rhett Home. Built in 1818, this townhouse showcases urban life in antebellum Charleston. Wealthy William Aiken Jr., was a successful businessman, rice planter and governor of South Carolina in the 1830s and 1850s. He ahd nis wife, Harriet, traveled Europe and furnished their home with many objects which have remained or been returned to the house since. The Aiken-Rhett House actually ramined in family ownership until 1975! Today, the omnipotent Historic Charleston Foundation (which Charlestonians seem to either love or hate due to their current rigidity in building regulations) has adopted a conservation approach to this townhouse and its outbuildings, which include slave quarters and stables.

Slave quarters

Harriet Aiken? Note the chair next to the portrait for scale.

Historic Charleston Foundation is conserving this landmark, not necessarily restoring it to look like it once was.

This tour was outstanding. It was self-guided, but we all had our own headset to control as we listened to information about the place. We were fascinated by the elaborate decor and grandness of each room in the house, but were also definitely humbled while walking through the tight corridors and rooms of the slave quarters.

They jazzed this room up for the holidays

We spent quite a bit of time merely walking the Charleston streets, looking at homes and piazzas, gates and gardens, commercial architecture and the ever-present horse drawn carriages pulling groups of people about.

Horsey!


A couple of these little "homes" were actually built as large playhouses for wealthy Charlestonian youth

Pretty flowers in the Nathaniel Russell gardens
Another historic home we toured was the Nathaniel Russell House. Located near the High Battery area, and an example of American neoclassical architecture, the Nathaniel Russel House has lots of embellished plasterwork ornamentation and a truly magnificent free-flying staircase.


I just loved this iron detailing found on a bench outside the Nathaniel Russell House

Charlestonians decorate during the holidays with LOTS of evergreen garlands and wreaths
This tour was guided by an old French woman who, although difficult to understand, really conveyed the dedication Charlestonians have for their many landmarks. That being said, because this woman had not been born in Charleston, she will never be considered a true Charlestonian, even if she loved the city so much she left her homeland to live there and to spend her senior years giving tours to a bunch of tourists like us. Nope, you have to be born there to be "legit".

Renee and Greg touring the town
We also spent time at the very popular market area. Judy was interested in purchasing one of the handmade sweetgrass baskets that the area is known for with its Gullah heritage connection. Although the baskets were beautiful and we were told that one should really barter with the vendors, we were a little taken aback at the original prices and cowered at the thought of haggling. Our midwestern shyness won out...

Judy inspecting one of the lovely baskets at market

Gorgeous detailing!
We ended our sightseeing that day by visiting the Old Slave Mart. This building was small and had just recently been converted into a museum. This was the place where slaves were brought after their arduous journey across the ocean. This was the place where families were torn apart and destroyed. Although small, this stop on our trip was quite moving.


Our final meal had to be seafood, of course, the last type of cuisine we thought we should experience while in Charleston. We were lucky to get a spot at Hank's Seafood Restaurant. Mark had an unbelievable boullibaise and Judy ordered a cheesy grits and shrimp meal that was out-of-this-world--and I don't care for grits!
Thanks for bearing with me as I struggle to get caught up on the blog and my life! I hope all are well.

1 comment:

Lisa said...

So did Judy buy the basket? No?

I don't like haggling either. I've done it by default a couple of times... is it haggling when you're standing there looking at something, say nothing, and the seller speaks up and offers to sell it for less? And you say "duh... okay"?

If so, I've haggled!